Enjoy A Sicilian Seaside Photowalk: The Secrets of What to See in Trapani
We arrived in Trapani at night. An enjoyable 6-hour scenic bus ride across Sicily ended in a dark, deserted parking lot outside of town. With phone GPS in hand, we followed the little blue dot along an industrial waterfront and then into the winding, narrow streets of the old city. Stopping once to pick up breakfast foods at a grocery store, we found our sweet apartment off a courtyard filled with hanging laundry. We had no clue until the next morning, just how charming this small city was.
Getting To Know Trapani on a Series of PhotoWalks
Thankfully our apartment had a moka pot and espresso, so after breakfast, we headed out, camera in hand, to see what makes Trapani unique.
Many of my travel days are simple photowalks, or what I like to call awe-ventures. I love to wander route-lessly, often exploring the margins before disappearing into the inner city. And if there is water nearby, I tend to head towards it. My camera helps me pay attention. It is my favourite tool to improve my awareness and to notice and appreciate a place. A photowalk helps me cut through all the new and exciting stimuli to see and capture what I find intriguing or beautiful.
Trapani Old Town
One of the city's historical highlights of Trapani is the Old Town, a maze of narrow streets lined with ancient buildings and churches. Surrounded on three sides by the Mediterranean, Trapani Old Town sits on a peninsula of land that juts out into the sea. According to legend, a giant scythe fell off the back of the ancient Greek goddess Demeter’s chariot while she frantically searched across Sicily for her missing daughter, Persephone. There was no time to stop and pick up the scythe, so it remained where it landed, forming a tongue of land on which Trapani would be founded.
As my husband and I followed the narrow cobblestone lanes, they delightfully opened into a single, bustling main street. The street hummed with morning activity at the restaurants, tourist shops, bakery (the kind with a steady stream of locals pouring in and out), post office, and a couple of magnificent churches with elaborate Baroque facades. What caught my eye on this photowalk was a charming little bookstore and a working artisan making tiny miniatures out of clay. While the City of Trapani has over 65,000 people, the Old Town is small and intimate. It is no more than 7 short blocks long and only 3 or so blocks wide. In fact, there are a few places you can see directly across the town from one oceanfront to the other.
Noticing the Different Personalities of Trapani
The town’s history stretches back centuries, bearing witness to the rise and fall of many ancient civilizations. As a coastal town perched on the western edge of Sicily, Trapani is a strategic gateway to North Africa from Europe. The location made it popular with the Carthaginians, Phoenicians, Romans, Arabs, and Normans. Each conquering culture left its mark, weaving a tapestry of influences that define Trapani's unique character including the architecture and the food (couscous!). Walking along the edge of the Old Town was reminiscent of the fortified city of Valletta on Malta. Except here there are slivers of beach accessible below the strong city walls. At the tip of the tongue of land stands the Torre di Ligny - one of five ancient defensive towers that line the coast.
The north side of Trapani Old Town is picture-pretty while the south has a very different vibe. It is the working part of town with fishing boats, ferries, and industry. Fisherman were selling their catches of the day right off the jetty. A marina is nestled behind a breakwater with colourful boats, mountains of nets, and sadly, a lot of garbage. In addition, there are more modern touches - a concrete walkway and an elegant tree-lined path with outdoor cafes.
Finding A Secret Sunset Spot
Okay, maybe not so secret! As I discovered what to see in Trapani on my photowalk, I also noticed where the sun would set. I found a lookout area and we returned one evening to join a small handful of people (local teens and tourists). I perched on the edge of the wall to savour (and snap) the changing sky.
Secret spot: Google Via Mura di Tramontana Oves. It is a narrow, elevated walkway along the sea on the north side of Trapani Old Town.
How to See Beyond the Tourist Spots
One day a photowalk took us out of Trapani Old Town along the lovely seawall. Like many places, as soon as you stray from the tourist centre, you leave behind people. In Trapani, the shoreline becomes empty and slightly neglected but that doesn’t bother me. In fact I prefer to see a place outside of the ‘touristy’ sections. We spotted a point of land jutting into the aquamarine ocean with a building in ruins - one of the old, abandoned forts that line the coast.
As we arrived, we approached the crumbling building cautiously. A quick Google search informed us that it was an abandoned tuna factory but there were elements that were much older. My camera helped me notice an alter, huge vats, and evidence of recent habitation. While navigating through and around the crumbled stone, an older gentleman appeared with a dog. He waved at us, said something, and gestured animatedly. With our “sorry no Italian” gestures and smiles, he quickly whipped out his phone and called us over. He proved to be an expert at using Google Translate and we proceeded to have a 45-minute conversation - granted mostly one-sided!
He wanted to ensure we weren’t scared of dogs before letting his off-leash. Then he offered to tell us about the location and its history. We were delighted! He’d speak rapid-fire Italian into his phone, we’d smile and nod, and then listen to the audio translation. He shared that when he met polite and respectful visitors, he liked to explain about the area. I took that as a compliment that we were being polite and respectful.
When he said andiamo…we followed!
He walked us through the ruins sharing stories from the far past and sad stories from the not-so-distant past relating to the site's destruction. The area was used as a make-shift shelter for refugees arriving by boat from North Africa but the site was originally a fort, part of a series along the shoreline. It had lookouts and a small chapel. Later it became a small tuna processing factory and played an additional role in WW2. As with much of Italy, Trapani experienced the tumultuous events brought about by the war, leaving a lasting impact on its residents and landscape. Our new friend recounted his family’s stories describing Allied Forces arriving along the coast.
We loved both the history lesson and meeting him! We went our separate ways after smiles, waves and multiple Gracie Mille’s. It’s moments of simple and generous interaction that enhance travel experiences and strengthen memories!
Capturing the Mysteries in Trapani
The city is renowned for its traditional Easter celebrations, particularly the Processione dei Misteri (Procession of the Mysteries), a solemn and elaborate procession featuring life-size wooden sculptures depicting scenes from the Passion of Christ. This centuries-old tradition attracts thousands of spectators, making it a deeply cherished event in Trapani's calendar.
We were in Trapani in the days leading up to Easter and were honoured to get a taste of this special celebration. We watched the town ready itself for the event and followed a couple of processions along the routes marked with banners. We also popped into a church that housed a well-curated display of ancient artifacts that tell the story behind the Procession of the Mysteries.
The city gets crowded at Easter and we met one enviable couple who booked a hotel room with a balcony overlooking the main street to ensure they had a prime view of the processions! If I was to return at Easter, that’s what I’d do!
A Photowalk (almost) to Trapani Salt Pans
Trapani Salt Pans is a unique landscape that supports the production of salt dating back to ancient times. Promotional literature describes these salt flats as…windmills dotting the horizon and vibrant hues ranging from deep blues to soft pinks, creating a surreal panorama that photographers and nature enthusiasts adore. Naturally, that description piqued my interest and a photowalk to the Trapani Salt Pans was planned.
I try not to let expectations seep into my photowalks, but I failed in Trapani. The walk became more of a photographic expedition in search of the “striking windmills and vibrant hues ranging from deep blues to soft pinks.” We DIY’ed our journey and chose to walk to what we read were hiking trails through the salt flats. After 10km of busy and boring highway walking, we discovered a big sign that said NO TRESPASSING! Thinking we might find access further along the road, the path beside the road disappeared after 200 metres. Thus, no Trapani Salt Pans dream photos were taken. Nevertheless, we did see salt production in action, one windmill, and pink flamingoes!!
Other Places to Explore (for next time)
The Egadi Islands
These pristine islands just off the coast of Trapani offer idyllic beaches, crystal-clear waters, and a laid-back atmosphere perfect for relaxation. Getting to the islands is an easy ferry ride from Trapani. We saw many day trippers as well as people laden with luggage seeking a quiet escape.
Erice
For those seeking panoramic views, a trip to Erice is recommended. Erice is perched on a hill overlooking Trapani. The medieval town boasts sweeping vistas of the coastline, the Egadi Islands, and the surrounding countryside. There is a cable-car (funivia) which climbs from the outskirts of Trapani to the town wall. It was closed for major maintenance during our stay and while you can drive or get a taxi, we chose to keep the journey for another time.
Looking for more in the Trapani area? Check out these tours to help you plan!
*these are affiliate links. I get a small commission when readers book through my links - at no extra cost to you.💗
Embarking on a photowalk encourages mindfulness as you observe your surroundings with heightened awareness. During travels it helps me pay attention to cultural nuances, landscapes, local flavors, and candid moments that reflect the essence of the journey. Mindful Photography using photowalks (awe-ventures) works at home too! You'll be amazed by the beauty and charm you can discover just around the corner. With practice, become attuned to details, colors, textures, and fleeting moments that often go unnoticed. This mindful engagement fosters a sense of presence and appreciation for the present moment.
Want some travel photo ideas for your next adventure? I’ve compiled a shot list that helps me tell a fuller story of a place that I visit (or live). Tuck it in your travel journal!
