A Southwest Coast Path Adventure - Without Actually Walking All 1014km
When I mention I’ve walked sections of the Southwest Coast Path, people’s eyes widen imagining the incredible feat of traversing England’s longest waymarked footpath, which stretches an epic 1014km (630 miles) along the coastlines of Somerset, Devon, Cornwall, and Dorset. The truth, though, is less Herculean! I sampled this spectacular route, selecting specific sections for their diverse landscapes, charming villages, and awe-inspiring natural beauty.
My husband and I enjoyed this amazing coastal walking path and used a combination of section hiking and “hop on hop off” approaches that took full advantage of the UK’s excellent transit system. The journey allowed us to discover our highlights of this iconic trail without committing to the full distance. We chose where to “hop on hop off” the trail based on:
Places that interested us from books, history, and art
Existing transportation options
Avoiding very physically demanding sections
The weather. Our motto: expect rain and be thrilled with anything else!
At this time in our lives, it was the perfect way to experience walking the Southwest Coast Path (SWCP). We ended up walking ~100km on the trail. Some sections were thru-hikes; some out-and-back round trips. Every section exceeded expectations! And like any trip, it was the unplanned and unanticipated experiences that made the trip so special.
If the Southwest Coast Path has caught your interest, whether you are planning a series of day hikes, a multi-week trek, or the whole shebang, the SWCP offers something for everyone. The landscape is varied and includes windswept cliffs, golden beaches, historic landmarks, and many cozy pubs along the way.
Along the SWCP in St. Ives, UK
What and Where is the Southwest Coast Path?
The Southwest Coast Path is a National Trail that follows the jagged coastline of southwest England. Created by coastguards patrolling for smugglers, the trail now provides walkers with access to the breathtaking coastal scenery of the United Kingdom. The path begins in the town of Minehead and hugs the coast as it winds through Cornwall, Devon, and Dorset. If you are after dramatic cliffs, sandy coves, ancient villages, and UNESCO World Heritage sites including the Jurassic Coast, the Southwest Coast Path delivers.
As a North American, I am wowed by how the UK maintains incredible public access for walkers, including much of their coastline. In contrast to where I live, there are very few private properties along the sea, allowing the trail to follow the shore with unobstructed views. The paths are well maintained and very well used, too. The UK has a strong walking culture and an enormous dog-walking community that keeps the paths highly valued.
Planning a journey is easy thanks to the comprehensive resources provided by the Southwest Coast Path Association, which offers detailed maps, itineraries, and recommendations for accommodations, transport, and points of interest. The hardest part, unless you are walking the whole thing, is to choose which sections to walk.
Our Journey Map of Southwest Coast Path
A little taste of the Southwest Coast Path
Why Section Hiking+ Day Hiking + Slackpacking Worked for Me
The SWCP, as a walking challenge, is undeniably enticing, but completing its full length is daunting. Those we met who live in the UK shared how they gradually complete the route on weekend getaways, section by section. Given that we visited from afar, walking sections allowed us to:
Explore the handpicked regions that suited our interests and energy levels, including the rugged cliffs facing the wild Atlantic Ocean, the small, quaint villages nestled by the sea, and iconic landmarks both historical and geological. Buses and trains helped us knit together the sections we wanted to walk.
Travel light (or not). Because our trip also included travelling to Normandy, Versailles, Morocco, and Spain, our travel packs weren’t hiking packs and we didn’t want to carry them all day. The SWCP is popular enough to support a significant infrastructure including accommodation options along the path as well as luggage transfer services. Slackpacking is the term (slightly derogatory yet accurate) for using a luggage service allowing you to walk or hike long distances carrying only a daypack.
For those looking to sample the trail, short walks, circular routes, or a series of day hikes are great ways to experience the SWCP’s magic.
Highlights of Our Journey Along the SWCP
Our journey included seven “sections” each unique and special.
St Ives
Cornwall’s South Atlantic Coast
SWCP and the Camino
St. Erth to Tower Ruins via St. Ives
This stretch is quintessential Cornwall and dubbed the Cornish Riviera. It offers sweeping views of the Atlantic on a path that alternates between dirt and pavement. I was surprised at the diversity in the terrain over a fairly short distance. We followed train tracks, went over trestles, passed sandy beaches, tunnelled through overgrown brush, sidled along cliffs and meandered through neighbourhoods. Every step felt like an adventure.
St Ives was the heart of this section for us. We rented an apartment in this charming, artsy town. The cobblestone streets lead down to a sheltered bay of bobbing fishing boats on one side and a surf-worthy beach on the other. The quality of light here is said to be extraordinary year-round and has attracted many artists over the last century. The town is surrounded by beaches of crushed golden granite and white seashells so when the sun shines, the light dances!
Part of the path in this area (from Lelant) is also a Camino pilgrimage route. The Confraternity of St James petitioned the Catholic Church to recognize distances that pilgrims walk towards Camino de Santiago. It is now possible to walk 25km in England or Ireland, then join the Spanish Camino Ingles route from A Coruña and still qualify with 100km for the Compostela. There are several options, one of which is the route from Lelant to St. Michael’s Mount. We had the pleasure of walking a portion of this path and saw both the acorn that marks the SWCP trail and the seashell indicating a Camino route.
PLANNING TIP: There is a delightful passenger train that runs between St. Erth and St Ives as well as a seasonal open-topped double-decker bus called the “Lands End Coaster” with routes between various Cornish destinations. The bus has limited routes off-season but the 10-minute train runs more than 25 times a day year round. We rarely rent cars when we travel so we appreciate a great public transit system that offers beautiful views along the way!
Far West of Cornwall
Far west of Cornwall near Land’s End
Sennen Cove to Nanjizal Bay
We chose to explore a remote section of the SWCP and it felt like stepping into another world with dramatically rugged cliffs and the untamed beauty of the wild Atlantic Ocean. From our accommodation in Penzance, we rode the Land’s End Coaster double-decker bus towards the westernmost point of Cornwall. We hopped off the bus early at Sennen Cove and wound our way down to the beach to pick up the Southwest Coast Path which went up and over gently rolling hills.
The coast is spectacular and differs from the ocean I live on in western Canada. The boulders and rocks are shaped differently, there is hardly any driftwood, and instead of a dense coniferous forest plunging onto the ocean, the rolling Cornish hills are far more open and the wide sky feels dramatic. Plus, North America doesn’t have Iron Age castle ruins!
Land’s End, itself, is an attraction and holiday destination, visually incongruent with the rest of the open countryside. We walked through the random collection of buildings on the cliff’s edge but didn’t linger as it was very touristy and kitschy. The views, though, are amazing AND it has a bus stop that we used to return to Penzance.
TRAVEL TIP: Sit on the top deck of the bus because the roads are incredibly narrow and lined with thick hedgerows. There is NO view from downstairs. From up top, soak in gorgeous views of the farms, villages, and valleys and enjoy an entertaining (nervy!), birds-eye view of the vehicle traffic navigating these country roads. I’m still amazed at how big buses and cars fit on the incredibly narrow, twisty roads!
Mousehole to St. Michael’s Mount
I thoroughly enjoyed this stretch of the SWCP and if I visit again, will return here. We stayed in the charming city of Penzance with its expansive boardwalk and colourful high street. One day we walked west to Mousehole (pronounced “Mow-zel,”) and then east to St. Michael’s Mount on another day. The whole area is absolutely picturesque!
Mousehole is a tiny fishing village with narrow streets and a cozy harbour with a snug pub. We happened upon a delightful craft market, too, and enjoyed chatting with the local artisans wishing we had room in our packs for some purchases. On the way to Mousehole, I also spotted an inviting natural lido or tidal swimming pool. I learned that most children in the area learn to swim here. I regret that I didn’t brave a dip in the sea!
PLANNING TIP: Wear or pack a bathing suit the day you are near Mousehole, check the tides, and take a chilly plunge!
Saltwater Lido at Mousehole
Tidal causeway to St. Michael’s Mount
St. Michael’s Mount was another trip highlight. St. Michael’s Mount is a tidal island with an impressive castle. The island is now privately owned with a small community of families living within the walls of the fortified castle. The castle, once a medieval church, dates back to the 12th century.
What makes this part of the path particularly special is that you have to time your visit for low tide when the underwater stone causeway is exposed giving a 2-hour window to walk to the island. The morning sun glittered on the water and made walking across simply magical. It was almost like we were walking on water!
PLANNING TIP: You can also take an amphibian craft to or from the island when the tide is too high. These boats were first used on the island in World War Two to transport scrap from HMS Warspite after it ran aground. Amphibious vehicles are still used regularly by the 30 permanent residents during the winter months and for ferrying residents, staff, school children, and tourists back and forth to the nearby town of Marazion.
Border of Cornwall and Devon
Plymouth & Cawsand to Mount Edgcumbe
This section was a delightful mix of urban seafaring history and rural tranquillity. We used Plymouth as our home base and enjoyed exploring the bustling port city and its amazing historical connections: World War 1 and 2, emigration and the Mayflower, Sherlock Holmes, and marine conservation. It has a wonderful energetic vibe because of its two universities with vast neighbourhoods of student housing. When in Plymouth, check out the Barbican, a vibrant old port with Elizabethan warehouses that surprisingly escaped bombing during the war. It is home to fun restaurants and a swanky gin distillery (the oldest in England) that has the Mayflower passenger list on the wall. The Mayflower Museum is in Plymouth and anyone with genealogical interest will also find it worth a visit.
The Southwest Coast Path follows the city of Plymouth’s waterfront. You can also access parts of the path by hopping small ferries. We boarded one to the exquisite village of Cawsand and hiked around, through, and over the lush greenery of Mount Edgcumbe, with its grand estates and panoramic views of the Tamar Estuary.
Cawsands, near Plymouth
The Jurassic Coast
The final days of our walk consisted of a 4-day inn-to-inn stretch along the Jurassic Coast. This stretch is a UNESCO World Heritage Site famed for its fossil-studded cliffs and dramatic landscapes. We used a luggage transfer service and loved the freedom of not worrying about our bags while we hiked to a new place every day.
Some standout stretches included:
Lyme Regis & Charmouth: Such fun fossil hunting! The beaches and cliffs are very unique although quite tough to walk!
Durdle Door to Lulworth Cove: The iconic limestone arch and the tranquil cove are a true wonder of nature. Planning tip: if you want to avoid a cardiac event, walk from Durdle door east towards Lulworth Cove. There are hills to climb both ways but wow our descent into Lulworth had us thanking our lucky stars we were catching a bus at the bottom!
Jurassic Coast Beach
Durdle Door
Weymouth to Portland - We arrived by bus into Weymouth, going through the 1000-year-old thatched roof town of Portesham. Weymouth has a nice beach with a summery-feeling boardwalk, colourful marina, and a fort. After exploring the town, we walked to Ferry Bridge, then along the mountainous dune of beach rocks, and up (up up up up) to Portland. Part way was a highlight as we stopped at the Wild Centre - a stunning bird reserve and nature education centre. Then up up up (until we took a bus to the very top) to find the incredible Portland stone quarry with its secret sculpture park. Portland stone is proudly used in numerous buildings worldwide including London’s famous Saint Paul’s Cathedral.
Studland to Sandbanks: The final section of the path is a serene walk through sandy heathlands and along gently sloping beaches to the sculpture that marks the end of the Southwest Coast Path. We hopped on the cable ferry into Sandbanks and bussed our way to downtown Poole readying ourselves for a ferry across the English Channel to Normandy.
Practical Tips for Sampling the SWCP
SWCP closure in Portland
Direction doesn’t really matter. Unlike a walk towards a certain destination, the Southwest Coast Path can be enjoyed in either direction. In fact, we found that travelling east in the mornings meant that the sun shone in our faces until lunch. Something to consider!
Embrace the inevitable diversions. Several sections of the path were diverted, often due to the instability of a cliff. The path diversions are well-marked and can be quite interesting! One diversion led us away from the cliff edge and through a hilltop golf course. Another took us through a field of sheep! The tip applies to transportation, too, as off-season roadwork prevented buses from following their traditional routes. Thankfully, UK transportation has excellent apps to help plan. Go with the flow!
Luggage Transport: Many companies offer services to shuttle your bags to your next accommodation, allowing you to hike unburdened. We used www.luggagetransfers.co.uk and were very pleased with the service.
Public Transport: Inexpensive buses and trains make it easy to hop between sections. Check out the websites for the Atlantic Coaster, Land’s End Coaster, the Jurassic Coaster, and the Exmoor Coaster to see the possibilities!
Accommodation: From charming B&Bs to seaside cottages, the variety of lodging options ensures you’ll find something to suit your style and budget. Wild camping is illegal (but done) and options range from campgrounds to resorts along the way! We stayed in an assortment of lodgings including a Home-exchange, apartments, and bed & breakfasts. The SWCP Association has lists. Here are three places we enjoyed with the links to check them out:
Seascape, Penzance (pic of high street)
Lyme Townhouse, Lyme Regis
The Manor House, West Bexington
Sample the Magic of the Southwest Coast Path
Section walking was the perfect way for us to casually experience the coast’s beauty without committing to the full distance of the SWCP. Whether you’re a seasoned hiker or a casual wanderer, the SWCP invites you to immerse yourself in its dramatic landscapes, vibrant communities, and timeless charm. Along with the nature and breathtaking scenery, we found that the people we passed along the way were very friendly and welcoming.
The United Kingdom maintains a remarkable network of meticulously designed paths that weave and wind across the country. All of Europe has, indeed, long embraced the culture of long-distance walking and thru-hiking. Check out some other great walks of the world here!
The Path Just Got Longer!
The Southwest Coast Path has whet my appetite and, as of 2024, England has connected ALL of its coastal paths into the King Charles III England Coast Path. The entire route is 2700 km of beautiful coastal landscapes: North West, North East, East, South East, and South West.
There might need to be more path sampling in my future!
More photos from the Southwest Coast Path
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I hope this article helps you to plan your next adventure! Looking for more guidance?
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